Flowering Dogwood: To Plant or Not to Plant

There is no prettier flowering tree than a dogwood, in my humble opinion. I love the bold white flowers (actually bracts surrounding little yellow flowers) in springtime, the lush green leaves on branches arranged gracefully in horizontal planes in summer, the burgundy fall color and bright red fruit that is favored by birds in autumn. Even its bark is outstanding, textured with small gray to black scaly blocks. In winter, the small chalky-gray flower buds stand out.

I have a childhood photo of myself and my sister reading books in the grass below “our” dogwood tree. It was a fairly young tree then and there was plenty of sun to grow grass beneath it at our house on Long Island. I remember this dogwood with affection. By the time I was a teenager, its crown was full and the tree cast significant shade. We often took photos of friends and family in front of this graceful tree.

Linda and Donna Legare under their dogwood tree in the 1950s. Family photo.

Flowering dogwood (Cornus florida) is a small understory tree that grows up to 25 or 35 feet. Its natural range extends from eastern Canada all the way to North Florida. Dogwoods were heavily planted in urban and suburban areas in Tallahassee in the late 1950s through the 70s. Many of these trees have died, due to old age. They are not long lived like live oaks. Unfortunately, people have been having trouble reestablishing dogwoods around Tallahassee.

There are problems to which dogwoods succumb listed on the UF/IFAS website, such as dogwood anthracnose, which hasn’t been found in Florida yet, powdery mildew, and borers that enter damaged trunks. You may decide not to plant a dogwood, especially if you do not have an ideal site for one.

However if you decide to plant one, select a spot with deep, rich, well-drained soil. Light shade is better than heavy shade. Ideally your dogwood should receive sun in the morning and protection from hot afternoon sun.

There should be lots of leaf mulch around your planted dogwood. This will provide a natural source of fertilizer and will make it unnecessary for mowers and weed whackers to cut in close, thus avoiding trunk wounds. As the tree grows, don’t plant much beneath it; try not to disturb its roots. The leaf mulch will help keep the roots cool and conserve moisture.

Drought will stress your dogwood. Pay attention to watering, especially for the first year and during extended droughts. Water when rainfall is inconsistent and apply a layer of pine straw, if leaf mulch is not available.

If your soil is just not up to par, you will probably fail with a flowering dogwood tree. Instead try a different species. Other native spring bloomers to consider are red buckeye, fringe tree, Chickasaw plum, redbud, silverbell, parsley hawthorn, and crabapple. But if you’ve got the right soil, I would encourage you to try a dogwood. I plan to plant one this week to replace an old one that has reached the end of its life. I will miss this old tree!

Florida Flame Azalea Sets the Forest Ablaze

My favorite individual had a pale-yellow flower face, adorned with contrasting bright pink stamens and pink throats.

I have been exploring the natural environs of the Florida Panhandle for many years, often returning to favorite spots regularly. Although I assumed I might become bored with the same spots, or the Panhandle in general, every year I am delighted to discover new flora and fauna. Last spring was just such an experience.

I was revisiting a favorite location in Chattahoochee that is teeming with rare and unusual plant species. This is a site I have visited over the years in every season and have always been surprised to find something new that I’ve never noticed before.

On this morning, I decided to wander deeper into the woods along a small, clear stream. I saw many familiar early spring wildflowers including trillium, columbine, and even oxeye sunflower in bloom. These plants signified a healthy habitat that had not been overly disturbed by people.

As I followed the stream, I noticed a blaze of bright orange up ahead. With elation, I realized I had come upon our native Florida flame azalea, Rhododendron austrinum, blooming in the wild! This was a first for me and it’s hard to describe the feeling of excitement and joy that filled me like a warm, electric buzz throughout my body. Goosebumps!

I often see our more common native Piedmont azalea, Rhododendron canescens, with its blush-pink flowers blooming in the wild, but the Florida flame is a state-listed endangered species and, while I’ve seen many plants in cultivation, it’s a rare find in the wild.

This Florida flame azalea had solid, sunny yellow blooms.

As I ventured further into the woods, I discovered more and more Florida flame azalea plants. One of the most alluring aspects of our native wildflowers, trees, and shrubs is the genetic variation they often exhibit. Unlike plant varieties that have been cultivated for uniformity, native species often exhibit many visible differences between individual plants within the same species.

Just like humans, differences in size, shape, and color are noticeable between individuals. These visible differences are seen even if all the plants originated from the same seedpod. They may differ in traits that are not visible as well, like susceptibility to pests and disease or their tolerance of varying conditions, such as temperature and humidity. This genetic variability makes the entire species more adaptable to change in their environment.

Florida flame azaleas are a superb example of visible genetic variation. With each new individual I encountered along my path that spring day, I noticed differences in their blooms. One plant had tight clusters of clear tangerine blooms, the next was a solid yellow-gold, while another exhibited a bright tangerine flower face, yet the tubular throat of the flower was a gradient from dark orange to deep purple red. I wandered for hours, pushed by the anticipation of what the next blooms would have to offer.

Notice the deep red tubular throat on these Florida flame azalea blooms.

You can experience these glorious fragrant shrubs in your yard too. Many native plant nurseries carry seed-grown native Florida flame azaleas. With such varying color differences between individual plants, many homeowners prefer to shop in spring so they can choose the exact color they want. Others are content to be surprised the following spring.

Like many of our native endangered plant species, Florida flame azalea is low-maintenance if you provide the right conditions. It blooms best when planted in a sunny spot that provides some shade during the day.

They prefer well-draining soil, rich with organic matter, that doesn’t dry out often. Plant them properly, with the first main root at or just above soil level and keep them well-watered throughout the first year. In return, they will reward you each spring with their fragrant, flaming blooms.

The memorable experience of discovering this rare azalea in bloom reinforced my love for this incredibly biodiverse area we call home – the Florida Panhandle. I hope that sharing my joy and excitement for this remarkable region will inspire you to explore and appreciate it as well.

I hope you consider planting more native species in your own yard and supporting conservation of this unique region so that future generations can experience the same delight and awe.

Tricked out: Tips for keeping squirrels and raccoons out of the bird feeder

Northern cardinal and American goldfinch dining at Native Nurseries’ squirrel and raccoon proof feeder. (Photo: Jody Walthall)

Every yard and home is different, each presenting unique challenges for optimal bird feeder location. First select the window best suited for viewing birds and then go outdoors to evaluate your landscape and how it may impact your choice of protecting your feeder from “tree rats” and “masked bandits.”

There are three main methods for mounting your bird feeder; hang on a shepherd’s hook, hang in a tree, or place on top of a pole. A shepherd’s hook may be the easiest but is the most difficult to make squirrel/raccoon proof. Usually the pole is too short, or the hook is too close to the pole, allowing squirrels to hold on to the pole with their hind feet and rake out seed with their front feet even on a supposedly squirrel proof feeder.

Hanging your feeder in a tree may present its own problems because limbs may be too close to the feeder. If limbs are nearby, select a feeder that closes when a squirrel puts its weight on it.

If your tree is large and rather open, you may be able to hang it with six to eight feet of fine wire. A large dome shaped squirrel guard may help, but only if nearby limbs are no closer than seven feet, since squirrels can jump six feet horizontally. None of the above may prevent a raccoon from accessing the feeder.

The third method of protecting a feeder is my favorite. Placing the feeder on top of an easily installed metal pole with a raccoon baffle below it is very effective against squirrels and raccoons. A plastic tray or short stove pipe type baffles may be effective against squirrels, but if you have neighborhood raccoons, these baffles can easily be defeated by them.

You may use a seven-foot pole with multiple arms extending from which to hang feeders. On the pole, place a stove pipe type raccoon baffle, the top of which must be four feet above the ground to prevent squirrels from leaping above it to the pole.

At my home I use a metal pole with a stove pipe type raccoon baffle. Sitting on top of the baffle is a wooden platform feeder. Twelve inches above the platform is a plastic tray feeder and from the center of it a tube type feeder. The tube is filled with a blend of black oil sunflower, sunflower chips (no hulls), and safflower seed.

These seeds are preferred by chickadees, titmice, goldfinch, and white breasted nuthatch. The plastic tray has sunflower chips, peanut halves, and white proso millet. Cardinals love the sunflower chips, along with mourning dove and pine warblers (in winter). Blue jays and titmice eat the peanut halves, which also have drawn a regular summer tanager.

The wooden tray has white proso millet and suet cakes. In winter, ten chipping sparrows may be perched on the tray, eating the millet. Woodpeckers – downy and red-bellied – yellow-rumped warblers, yellow-throated warblers, Baltimore orioles, and a ruby-crowned kinglet go for the suet, a mixture of beef kidney fat and coarse cornmeal. This tray has a retractable metal screen bottom for easy cleaning.

All feeders must be cleaned regularly for the health of the birds.

Though I prefer the low-tech exclusion techniques to keep the squirrels and raccoons off my feeders, there are many other feeders on the market. They may involve battery powered motors that, when activated by a squirrel’s weight, spin the feeder perches and throw the squirrel off.

These products involve all the complications of charging batteries and motors that may burn out and are costly to replace. This approach still does not address the problem of raccoons that can damage the feeder or drag it out into the woods where it can eat in private.

Since I have spent a few hundred dollars repairing squirrel damage to my house the last two years, I try not to encourage squirrels by giving them extra food. I used to spread white proso millet on our patio in the winter for the sparrows and squirrels, but not anymore!

Intentional feeding of raccoons is against the law in Florida. The danger of rabies is a real threat to humans from raccoon contact. Squirrels and raccoons benefit from the trees we plant in our yards and the habitat we develop over time in our neighborhoods. It is best not to feed them.

A raccoon baffle may cost $50 to $60, but if you are handy you could build your own out of stove pipe.

Evaluate your bird feeding situation and get the option that suits you best. It may seem like a high initial investment, but it will pay off many times over on savings in birdseed or home repair!